Dazzling Brisbane

As New Zealand endures the petulant and protracted quarrel over the future governance of Auckland, many parallels are being drawn with the Queen City's Australian sister, the City of Brisbane.

With a population of 1.6 million, and locally governed by one city council, the Queensland super city is a positive role model for John Banks and company to follow.

From a tourism perspective, "Brizzy" is often overlooked at the expense of the brighter lights of Sydney and Melbourne. But whether it be a quick city getaway, or a stopover before launching yourself at Queensland's dizzying array of attractions, Brisbane packs an appealing tropical punch, with plenty of sight to engage the visitor.

Brisbane's history is steeped in convict richness, particularly as Sydney's most recalcitrant prisoners were dispatched north to Moreton Bay. Yes, a hard-core penal colony was the first manifestation of European settlement in Brisbane.

The city takes its name from Sir Thomas Brisbane, the Governor of New South Wales, who decided in 1823 that Sydney's more challenging convicts needed to be sent north to the new and harsher incarceration facility.

Free settlers first stepped ashore in 1837, although they were prohibited from residing with 80km of the penal settlement. This set in motion a pattern of decentralisation which gave rise to the clusters of distinct communities around greater Brisbane, which endures as a striking feature in the 21^st century.

The city centre fits snugly into the horse-shoe shaped loop in the Brisbane River. For history buffs, exploring the architectural gems of the colonial era is easily accomplished on foot.

The Old Windmill is just one of two structures still standing that dates back to the convict days.

Constructed in 1828, the Old Windmill was Brisbane's first industrial building, although due to a lack of trained operators, it proved to be unworkable.

Treadmills were duly added to the structure, and recalcitrant convicts were placed on the treadmills for some robust punishment.

The Commissariat Store museum was built by convict labour in 1829 and this imposing old building is the only survivor from the penal colony era that is open to the public.

The biggest crowd-pleaser in the heritage stakes is undoubtedly parliament house.

Designed in French renaissance style, the complex accommodated Queensland's tropical realities with shady colonnades shutters and an arched roof added to the mix.

Built in 1865, Parliament house continues to be used for its original purpose.

The stained glass window for Queen Victoria is absolutely beautiful and a derigueur photo stop.

In 1859, the ship Fortitude sailed from England and up the Brisbane River with 250 free settlers aboard. The disembarking point was in a valley that was named after the ship and the area became a thriving trading centre for many years. Many impressive buildings were built in the 1880s.

In recent years, Fortitude Valley has been revitalised and is now Brisbane's bohemian nerve centre, with a slew of popular eateries and shops. The valley is also home to Brisbane's photogenic Chinatown, which is well worth a look.

Brisbane's steady climb in the cosmopolitan stakes was given a huge boost in 1988.

The River City played host to the World Expo, which drew thousands of international visitors to the city and unprecedented global publicity.

The South Bank Precinct was the site of Expo 88 and has now been redeveloped into a sprawling riverside centre of performing art, culture and recreation.

A vast suite of art galleries, museums, libraries, exhibition and cultural centres resonate with artistic treasures.

The south Bank area is particularly popular weekend hot-bed of cultural leisure, with restaurants, cafes, market stalls and street theatre wowing the crowds.

Serious culture-vultures should plan a trip to Brisbane for late August. That's when the city plays host to its acclaimed Riverside Festival. Running over 10 days, the annual arts bash is a riot of colour, flair, fireworks and entertainment.

www.riverfestival.com.au

Australian wildlife is magnificently showcased at the award-winning Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary. Established in 1927, Lone Pine is home to more than 100 koalas, in addition to kangaroos, emus, dingoes, wombats, reptiles and a veritable forest of tropical birdlife.

If you're travelling with children, Lone Pine is a must-see. The most scenic way to get to the sanctuary is to board the tourist ferry that departs from Victoria Bridge.

Another popular "Australiana" attraction is the Australian Woolshed. Located in Ferny Hills, the Woolshed showcases country life with daily ram and sheep dog shows.

Four letters are emblematic of Queensland, in the eyes of many drinkers. XXXX. Amber ale fans will certainly enjoy the Castlemaine-Perkins XXXX Brewery tour.

The hourly tours will cost you $18 but do include four complimentary ales at the end of the tour. The brewery is a 20-minute walk from the transit centre so leave the rental car at the hotel. www.xxxx.com.au

I am a hard-core fan of hop-on, hop-off tourist buses and Brisbane's City Sights shuttle bus offers an excellent service. The tour route takes in 19 of Brisbane's major landmarks, and tickets can be bought on-board the buses, which depart from Post Office Square. The ticket also gives unlimited use of city bus and ferry services.